Date Night #35: Lanterns, lost dumplings & a Chinatown rain dance

We’ve got a bit of a tradition when it comes to the Mid-Autumn Festival. Every year, we head into Chinatown for a date night — food, beers and a wander through the market to admire the glowing lanterns strung across the streets. It’s become our go-to for this time of year, a way to get into the festive mood while eating our fill of dumplings and pretending, just for a moment, that we’re tourists in our own city.


The original plan was to recreate one of our earlier date nights at Dumpling Garden on Pagoda Street — a nostalgic nod to Date Night #3 back at Chinese New Year. That meal had been so memorable (I’m still dreaming of their charred cauliflower), and there’s something comforting about repeating a good thing. I even wrote a whole blog post once about how “Excuse #1: “It’s hard to think of things to do.” is one of the most common excuses couples give for skipping date night — and how silly that excuse really is. You don’t need to reinvent the wheel every week. A familiar, themed night out can be just as fun as something brand new.


But… Chinatown had other plans for us. Dumpling Garden was gone! Just like that, vanished into the revolving door of eateries that line Pagoda Street. No more cauliflower, no more nostalgia. I’ll admit, I was more than a little sad. But in true date night spirit, we pivoted.


Instead, we found ourselves at an old favourite: Yellow Chair. If you’ve been around Chinatown, you’ve probably seen it — right on the corner of the market, with its unmistakable YELLOW plastic chairs and bustling outdoor seating. It’s one of those places that’s equal parts tourist trap and local haunt. And honestly? We don’t care. Sometimes you just need a reliable spot where you know the food is going to be good and the people-watching is even better.


Where?

📍 Yellow Chair, corner of Pagoda Street, Chinatown
📍Lantern displays along New Bridge Road (and various stalls in Chinatown market)


What?

It had been a while since we’d last eaten at Yellow Chair, and the menu had shifted slightly since then. But the essentials were still there, and we made sure to order all our favourites:

  • Crispy Fried Pork Belly: This was the star of the night. Crunchy, salty, perfectly seasoned, with just enough fat to make it decadent without being overwhelming. I could happily have eaten a plate to myself.
  • Sambal Kang Kong: Because no Singapore meal feels complete without a token green dish. Spicy and extremely garlicky. Yum!
  • Seafood Fried Rice: Fluffy, savoury, loaded with prawns and squid, and the kind of dish that ties everything together. Comfort food at its finest.
  • Dumplings in Chilli Oil: Soft skins, rich pork filling, and just the right amount of heat to keep you reaching for your beer.
  • Pork Dumplings (steamed): Simple, juicy, and satisfying — no frills, just good dumplings done well.

All of this was washed down with cold beers, because let’s be real: Chinatown date night isn’t complete without a lager or two. Prices were what you’d expect for a touristy spot — not hawker-cheap, but not outrageous either. We left full and happy without feeling like we’d blown the budget.


One thing Yellow Chair is known for (other than the food) is the soundtrack. Don’t expect traditional Chinese background music. Instead, it’s full-on karaoke classics and western hits — think ABBA’s Dancing Queen or Gloria Gaynor’s I Will Survive. Not exactly authentic ambiance, but definitely entertaining.


The plan had been to carry on the night at Smith Street Taps in the Chinatown Food Complex — one of Singapore’s best-loved craft beer spots — but the weather had other ideas. Just as we finished eating, the heavens opened. It absolutely poured!


The rain changed our plans again. No Smith Street Taps. No leisurely market stroll. But we weren’t giving up on the Mid-Autumn spirit entirely. Instead, we ducked into one of the lantern shops nearby. The place was crammed floor to ceiling with every kind of lantern imaginable — traditional paper ones, bright plastic animals, flashing LED designs.


We decided to pick up lanterns for our boys, choosing their Chinese zodiac animals so we could reuse them as decorations at Chinese New Year too. Practical and festive — parenting win!


Finally, once the rain eased, we made a quick dash over to New Bridge Road to see the main lantern displays. Every year they string up huge themed decorations along the road, and while this year leaned heavily into mooncakes and traditional motifs, it still felt magical seeing them lit up against the night sky. It was short and sweet, but enough to get us in the Mid-Autumn mood.


WOW Tips

⭐ If you’ve got your heart set on a particular Chinatown restaurant, double-check it’s still there — the turnover is quick!

Don’t knock the touristy spots — Yellow Chair may look basic, but the food is consistently solid and the people-watching is unbeatable.

Buy your lanterns before dinner if you’re going midweek. A lot of stalls had shut by the time we got there after eating.

Rain is always a possibility in Singapore — bring an umbrella (we still haven’t learnt this lesson!)  

Pair the evening with Smith Street Taps if the weather allows — it’s worth it.


Worth it?

6/10


It wasn’t the night we had planned, and the rain definitely put a dampener on things (literally). Still, it was good food, a festive atmosphere, and a nice way to mark the upcoming Mid-Autumn Festival. Sometimes the best dates aren’t perfect, but they still tick the box of spending time together.


What HE Said…

“Yellow Chair is always nice. Despite being a tourist trap the food is always good, and it’s a great place to people-watch. Shame about the rain though.”


7/10.


Wrap-Up

Date Night #35 wasn’t quite what we expected, but that’s life. Chinatown during the Mid-Autumn Festival is always worth a wander, even if plans change and the rain tries to chase you home early. From crispy pork belly and chilli oil dumplings to glowing lanterns in the rain, it was a reminder that sometimes date night doesn’t need to be perfect — it just needs to be ours.


Where’s your favourite place to eat in Chinatown? Leave a comment – we really should try somewhere new! Next week my husband is away – but I’ll still be having a date night with my cousin – stay tuned!


Wanna see?

Chinatown. Singapore. Date night. lanterns. mid Autumn festival. yellow chair. pagoda street. chinese food. dumplings. market street.
Chinatown. Singapore. Date night. lanterns. mid Autumn festival. yellow chair. pagoda street. chinese food. dumplings. market street.
Chinatown. Singapore. Date night. lanterns. mid Autumn festival. yellow chair. pagoda street. chinese food. dumplings. market street.

📸 For photos from the night, check out Instagram.

Chinatown. Singapore. Date night. lanterns. mid Autumn festival. yellow chair. pagoda street. chinese food. dumplings. market street.

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